A Variety of Leash Training Methods

Tricks, obedience, behavior, and more.
Wooderson
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Location: Kiev, Ukraine, around the corner from the Republic Stadium, near the downtown MegaMart

Postby Wooderson » Wed Mar 29, 2006 7:27 am

Thanks for the advice, but I sort of live in Ukraine. Basically it's like Russia, only more so.

There are dog trainers here, but the only dog philosophy I've ever seen here is the "beat the [chocolate] out of the dog until the dog is deathly afraid to disobey".

I don't exactly want to go there, even though from what I have seen, these trainers seem to get disturbingly effective results.

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PittyLuvers
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In Ukraine

Postby PittyLuvers » Wed Mar 29, 2006 12:03 pm

Surf the web for the AKC The Canine Good Citizen Program from the AKC and other instructional dog training VHS tapes and inexpensive DVDs and books for ideas. Surf around for the NFL or No Free Lunch program. Repetition, time and reinforcement. When our dog pulls we just stop, until he gets bored and sits, then we continue the walk.

Wooderson
Super Bully
Posts: 650
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 3:04 am
Location: Kiev, Ukraine, around the corner from the Republic Stadium, near the downtown MegaMart

Postby Wooderson » Thu Mar 30, 2006 2:59 am

Thanks for the advice. Not sure whether those videos can be shipped here.

I've done NILIF since the day I got Redhead; he's never gotten a thing for free except for maybe water.

andylovespits01

Postby andylovespits01 » Fri Mar 31, 2006 8:27 am

here is th deel. I have been trying to leash train my dog. She is a one year old pitbull and she loves to pull. I have been reading the different posts on the subject and there seams to be alot of different methods to doing this. Which method works the best for proper training because I am wanting to start to show her. I am also thinking about trying to start training her for weight pulling. How should I go about makeing the two different?

staffman

Postby staffman » Sat May 13, 2006 7:08 pm

im going to try this method with my friends rottweiler-i alreaady taught him to walk on leash with slack with a simple "when he pulls i say stop and stopped, when he gave in to pulling and let the leash slack i walked on, if he pulled i say stop and stop, this was a never ending cycle until about 10-5 minutes into it.

im going to try this with a flat collar though as my friend doesn't have a prong collar and doesn't intend to buy one.

ill tell you how it goes, probably some time next week

staffman

Postby staffman » Sun May 14, 2006 2:52 pm

anyone have any tips for me

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GreddysAngel
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Postby GreddysAngel » Sun May 14, 2006 3:29 pm

If he starts to pull, turn quickly and walk the other way. After about 3 turns they get the point and actually start watching you to make sure you dont turn.

Ceribusmomma

Postby Ceribusmomma » Sun May 14, 2006 10:43 pm

Thank yall for this topic!! I have a 4 month old baby boy and he is IMPOSIBLE to walk. He pulls at the end of the leash till his lil feet bleed. So then i took the advice of some friends (not pit owners, but dog owners) and tried the choke chain. After 15 mins his neck was bleedin. So of course that was the last time we did the choke chain, cuz I will not have my baby hurtin. So we did the "gentle leader" collar thing. That worked for about 20 mins till he figured out all he had to do was keep his neck stiff then it would'nt pull his face down so now that doesn't work either! So i was wantin some new ideas on how to make him stop pullin my arm off! I will try the other collar and see if that does any good. The other thing i figured out is that we cant take the kids on walks with us right now. He wants to walk with them and doesnt wanna stay with momma. So i will let ya know if it works for Ceribus!!!!!

NinoPup

Postby NinoPup » Thu Jun 22, 2006 3:33 pm

I tried this for about 3 weeks every walk and he didn't get it at all. He just got confused to why we were going nowhere and mad that I wasn't talking to him. I developed my own way andthen a week later read the same thing in that "training secrets for bullies" magazine.

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Annika
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Postby Annika » Sat Jul 01, 2006 12:29 am

All right. I just read this WHOLE thread. Whew! lol

I am still feeling very troubled, frustrated, and mean. I'll explain...

Piper is 8 months old and when we met her at the shelter, a week ago, well...picture a wild stallion being lassoed with a rope. Rearing, pulling, spazzing out.

We have been training her thus far with a mixture of corrections and positive reinforcement. If she's off-leash in the house, her corrections are a sharp "BAH!" type bark which startles her to stop her misbehavior. Then as SOON as she stops, we praise her lavishly for stopping. On-leash outdoors, we use a martingale. We BAH! and pop the martingale for corrections and then praise lavishly when she minds us. But I have hit some frustrating walls (I know it's only been a week, but this is my first ever pit bull, so bear with me and please help me out!)

Frustrating Wall #1: Sometimes when I pop the martingale, Piper SPAZZES out. Erupts into a fit of tug-and-chew-the-leash-while-growling-and-dancing. What is this?!

Frustrating Wall #2: I'm embarrassed to walk her, but don't I need to walk her to practice?? She pulls. HARD. She's getting better at it, but when she sees another dog, FORGET IT. Growly, waggy, up on two legs, pulling with the strength of ten men. I can hold her, but now I'm "that girl with the out of control pit bull. They ought to ban those." I want to be such a good breed ambassador, but now we are hurting the breed when we are outside. :(

Frustrating Wall #3: Ok, so this method of stopping and standing like a post till they figure out not to pull....well, Piper doesn't care. She's happy as a clam to circle around me, nose to the ground, sniff sniff sniff sniff sniff. Won't even look up. Doesn't care if we stand there for half an hour. There are endless goodies to sniff in the grass, so who cares. Help?!

VERY Frustrating Wall #4: Piper has this GIANT beanbag chair. It's the one piece of furniture we allow her on. We taught her this on her homecoming day and she learned fast. She LOVES this chair. She'll want to lie on it even if we aren't in the room with her! So tonight, she's all sleepy and lying on it while my husband and I are checking email and wrapping up our evening. We go to get her for her last out of the evening, and she's peed all over her beanbag. WHAT!? Why would she do this? I am so scared that she was afraid to ask us to let her out for a pee because whenever we let her out for a pee, we work on training and rough her up with the martingale and she hates it?? I was near tears when I found she'd peed her bed because I DON'T want any fear in her heart. We rescued her to give her a wonderful life, not to militarize her and strike fear into her heart.

Is it time for some food rewards? I am trying so hard to avoid food rewards...is it time to make the backyard more fun and play ball a bit before we attempt leash heeling?

Please help...I feel like a mean momma and I'm scared of hurting Piper with the martingale. Her white throat is pink from her tugging and our martingale corrections.

:crybaby:

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Larry
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Get a prong...

Postby Larry » Thu Jul 20, 2006 9:38 pm

I have read this lesson over and over again. I bought a prong collar this afternoon for my boy Larry. He is a very strong puller, he weighs in at 60lbs, and has a ton of energy. I took him for his usual walk and let him burn off some energy. I then followed the directions at the beginning of this thread and WOW :thumbsup: , my boy Larry was a different dogHe would look up at me after 4 or 5 times of me turnng around, popping the collar and continuing in the opposite direction. I am going to stay with this and get my boy walking like a gentleman.

The only thing is that his neck did get kind of spotted from the prongs. I'm not too concerned, but will his neck get used to it the more he wears it?

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Annika
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Re: Get a prong...

Postby Annika » Fri Jul 21, 2006 9:25 am

Larry wrote:The only thing is that his neck did get kind of spotted from the prongs. I'm not too concerned, but will his neck get used to it the more he wears it?


I started a thread because I was concerned about this very thing. It's called "The H.S. prong is working great, but..." in the Training&Behavior section. lol

What I'm finding is, as we work with Piper on her prong, she is getting better and better at walking nicely, and we need to correct her less and less. Her red dots are going away on their own because we rarely need to correct her anymore. The prong is just there to remind her that we will correct her if she needs it. After lots of practice we want to graduate to walking her on a flat buckle collar with no prong at all.

Give your guy's skin a chance to heal up - alternate other exercises in with your walking. Sometimes instead of a walk, I'll play with Piper on the flirtpole. She gets 5 times as worked out, yet nothing ever touches her neck. :thumbsup:

PoolesPitbulls

Postby PoolesPitbulls » Sat Jul 29, 2006 8:36 pm

first off, Diane Jessup, beautiful pic on your avatar, would you mind emailing that to me? Not for advertisement, just for my own personal album of beautiful pitties!!

Also, I have never ever used a prong collar to teach a dog to heel, always used a choke chain, IMO from the few times I used a prong just for walks, you would probably get faster results with it. My own method of leash breaking, which has worked for me every time no matter the dogs breed or age or level of training. Tie them up!! Not hog tied but, a lightweight chain or cable, nothing heavy and certainly NO log chains, just a small but strong cable. and a sturdy collar that will NOT slip over their head. That defeats the purpose. Let them fight and whine and carry on till they quit, then let them off it. (This method is only for dogs that will not walk on a leash at all, i.e. dragging, running ahead then yanking, fighting tooth n nail to get away, etc). The idea is to teach them that fighting the leash does no good at all. For heeling after they are leash broken, I like your method, I always used a choke chain and kept them on a reasonable tight lead right at my side with a small jerk and the command "heel" every time they drag or run ahead.

This is just my own method but I have trained my own dogs since I was 9-10 yrs old and its always worked for me...

PoolesPitbulls

leash training

Postby PoolesPitbulls » Sat Jul 29, 2006 8:37 pm

first off, Diane Jessup, beautiful pic on your avatar, would you mind emailing that to me? Not for advertisement, just for my own personal album of beautiful pitties!!

Also, I have never ever used a prong collar to teach a dog to heel, always used a choke chain, IMO from the few times I used a prong just for walks, you would probably get faster results with it. My own method of leash breaking, which has worked for me every time no matter the dogs breed or age or level of training. Tie them up!! Not hog tied but, a lightweight chain or cable, nothing heavy and certainly NO log chains, just a small but strong cable. and a sturdy collar that will NOT slip over their head. That defeats the purpose. Let them fight and whine and carry on till they quit, then let them off it. (This method is only for dogs that will not walk on a leash at all, i.e. dragging, running ahead then yanking, fighting tooth n nail to get away, etc). The idea is to teach them that fighting the leash does no good at all. For heeling after they are leash broken, I like your method, I always used a choke chain and kept them on a reasonable tight lead right at my side with a small jerk and the command "heel" every time they drag or run ahead.

This is just my own method but I have trained my own dogs since I was 9-10 yrs old and its always worked for me...

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Nelson
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Postby Nelson » Sun Jul 30, 2006 5:31 pm

There are a thousand ways to teach a dog something. In that aspect, there is no ABSOLUTE TRUTH when it comes to dog training methods and techniques. But there IS a "black and white" way of using a negative stimulus and/or reinforcement with a restriction collar (choke, prong, etc).

The proper way to do it is to give the "pop" and the duration of that "pop" should last the same as a tick on the clock. No matter how light or heavy the "pop" is, it should last no longer than a fraction of a second.

Rule of thumb
Whenever the leash is tight, YOU are doing the training, not the dog!

The leash should be slack the huge majority of the time it's snaped on the dog's collar. If not, the dog will learn to have tug-o-war session with the handler and will come to expect his handler to do all of the training for him. The result being seen on the dog's neck. Abrasions, scraches, hair loss, etc, etc, etc....

Hope this helps, happy training! :thumbsup:


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